Digging for Bread on a Black Sand Beach
I don't know a lot about Zac Efron, but I do know I have him to thank for one of the coolest bread experiences I've ever had. You read that right—a bread experience!
"How long do you think the bread has to bake in the sand until it's done?" our guide asked. Someone guessed a day and I chimed in that was right, but I only knew because of Zac Efron. Another tourist laughed and said "same."
Brandon and I were on a small excursion to dig up bread at a geothermal bakery in Iceland. We had learned how Icelanders bake bread in boiling sands on the Netflix Series, Down to Earth with Zac Efron over a year ago. So when we decided to go to Iceland, I set out on a mission to find a place we could do just that.
Looking out over the lake, Laugarvatn.
After some research, I found Laugarvatn Fontana, a spa and geothermal bakery right on the Golden Circle that we could visit in between Þingvellir National Park and the Geysir Geothermal Area. At the time of our visit, they had daily bread excursions at 11:45 and 2:30. It's a good idea to reserve your spot ahead of time as they sometimes sell out.
We were with the 2:30 group and had just walked the short distance from the spa to the designated baking area on the Laugarvatn lakeshore where the guide was quizzing us on our geothermal bread baking knowledge. The beach is public property and several locals had marked mounds where their bread was baking, too. Our guide pointed out how everyone used different rocks (painted or uniquely shaped) to mark their bread mounds.
The steam rolling off the lake was gorgeous. The geothermal heat not only made baking the bread possible it's also what naturally heats the pools at the spa. If we had had more time we would have loved to experience the spa itself, too.
There was lots of wind coming off the lake during the bread dig.
We were extremely grateful to be at the bread dig though. Our guide dug a large silver baking pot out from the sand and then dug another spot for "tomorrows" bread and gave a lucky tourist in our group the honor of placing it in the hole before covering it back up and marking it for the next day.
We continued on to the lake shore where our guide washed the pot that held the bread in hommage to a Viking tradition of giving thanks.
Our guide presenting the bread after opening the pot.
Next up, it was back to the restaurant to enjoy the bread. Our guide setup at a demo table, removed the pot's lid, flipped it and the bread came out in one beautiful piece.
It was rye. From past experience I always thought of rye bread as dry and not my fave, but I could tell just from the color this was no ordinary rye bread. The spread at the demo table also included smoked trout from a local farmer and Icelandic butter.
After the bread was sliced for serving, we were advised to try the bread three ways: alone, with Icelandic butter and with the trout. It.was.amazing. All ways! The bread was so moist and full of flavor. I do have to admit this is also where I discovered that I'm apparently obsessed with cold smoked fish. I may have took a few extra samples.
The bread baked in the earth by the earth.
The experience was so unique and memorable. I'd definitely recommend booking your own geothermal bakery experience at Laugarvatn Fontana if you get the chance. In the meantime, you can try baking your own version of the bread at home using the recipe below. Unfortunately, unless you live near a geothermally heated beach you'll have to bake it in an oven at home*, but that's what makes the real deal so special. You just can't bake bread in the earth everywhere.
* If baking at home, our guide suggested adding a pan of water on the rack beneath the bread to add steam in the oven, and obviously don't wrap the pot in plastic wrap if it's going in the oven. As far as baking time and oven temp, I'd suggest looking up typical baking times and temps for rye in an oven and go from there. As someone with no baking talent, I'll leave those suggestions to the pros. : )
